Hard Wood Floor

Product description: 3/4” Solid

Nailed installation ONLY

The solid wood boards including the finishing stages, such as sanding, polishing and applying the finish, are entirely factory performed under ideal conditions. These pre-varnished boards are ready to be used immediately following their installation. Each board consists entirely of 3/4” thick solid wood; there is, therefore, no gluing or laminating required.

Recommended use

  • 1st floor Yes
  • Ground floor Yes
  • Basement No

3/4” solid products are not recommended for installation on a floor equipped with a radiant heating system.

Recommended material and tools

  1. Vacuum or broom
  2. Pneumatic or manual nailer for hardwood with nails or staples from 1 1/2” or more
  3. Levelling product or sander (if needed)
  4. A level
  5. Moisture meter for wood or concrete
  6. 15 lb. felt or wax paper
  7. Tape measure
  8. Chalk line
  9. Square
  10. Mitre saw
  11. Saw bench
  12. Hammer tapping block
  13. Handsaw
  14. Drill and 3/32” drill bit
  15. Hammer, spiral finishing nails and pry bar
  16. Mercier Touch up kit
  17. Mercier maintenance kit.

This is not an exhaustive list of installation tools that may be required. Please note that Mercier wood flooring is not responsible for damage caused by tools or from the inappropriate use of materials.

Owner and installer responsibility

Before laying the floor, the installer and the owner must make sure that the installation site and subfloor comply with the conditions specified in this document. The installer and the buyer have the responsibility to inspect the wood boards prior to their installation. Mercier products meet stringent quality standards and comply with the standards in force in the wood flooring industry. These allow a rate of imperfection not exceeding 5% of the quantity of the purchased boards. This rate includes both the natural imperfections of the wood, manufacturing defects and selection of the grade.

If the installer doubts the grade selection, the manufacturing or finishing quality and cannot place the board in a less conspicuous place, nor eliminate imperfection, he/she should not install it. Once the boards are installed, this shall be considered as having been accepted by the installer and the owner.

According to the site and the type of installation, control of the hardwood boards should provide 3 to 5% additional covering to compensate for the loss caused by the cuts. Mercier will only replace products with a defect rate exceeding the acceptable 5% rate (excluding the 3 to 5% cutting waste). Mercier cannot be held liable for improper installation of its products or poor judgment by the installer. Mercier assumes no labour or installation charges.


Structural lifetime limited warranty
35-year warranty on Mercier Generations certified
Greenguard finish

The manufacturer – “Floors Mercier Inc.” – warrants to the original purchaser that the Mercier Generations certified Greenguard finish will resist wear protection and surface peeling for a period of:

  • 35 years from the date of purchase, under normal residential conditions.
  • 5 years from the date of purchase, for light commercial use.

Preparation of the site

The installation of the wooden floor should be the last step in your project. Before the flooring boards are delivered, inspect the installation site to make sure that:

  • The concrete, plaster, paint as well as the sub-floor are completely dry.
  • Heating, ventilation or air conditioning systems are functional and market.
  • The building is kept within normal ambient conditions for at least one (1) week prior to floor laying, at a temperature of about 20°C (68°F) and a relative humidity between 40% (MINIMUM) and 55% (MAXIMUM).
  • The floor of the crawl space (if any) is completely coated with a 6 to 8 mil black polyethylene film.

The installer must check the humidity of the subfloor (plywood or OSB) at various locations using a moisture meter for wood. The moisture content of the subfloor must never exceed 12% and the gap between the subfloor and the wood boards must not exceed more than 4% of the rate of internal moisture of the boards which is from 6% to 9%. If the humidity of the subfloor or the gap between the floor and the subfloor is too high, heat, ventilate and dehumidify the site and delay the delivery and installation of the floor. (For 4 1/4 “ wide boards and greater, the gap between the subfloor and the wood boards must not exceed more than 2% internal humidity of boards).

Once the ideal conditions have been obtained…
Bring the boxes of boards onto the installation site. Verify that the product is consistent in terms of species, grade, colour, size and quality. If all is compliant, let the wood acclimate for a minimum period of 48 hours prior to installation. Never store boxes of wood in an improper location such as a shed, an unheated garage or basement.

Preparation and correction of the sub-floor:

  • The subfloor must be structurally sound and securely fastened to the joists with floor screws to avoid any movement of the plywood panels, which could lead to cracks.
  • Mercier recommends using plywood panels or 3⁄4’’ thick board-oriented panels (board OSB) for spaced joists to at least” 19.2’’ center to center, as a subfloor.
  • The surface must be level. Rectify minor irregularities on the surface using a sander or a floor leveler (allow the leveler to completely dry before starting installation of the wood floor).
  • The subfloor must not present an elevation gain of more than 3/16” over a distance of 6,’ or 1/4” over a distance of 10 feet.
  • The surface must be clean. Eliminate deposits of glue, staples and drive in the visible nails.
  • Remove debris and dust with a vacuum cleaner.
  • It is recommended to install 15 lb. felt paper or wax paper over the entire surface of the subfloor.

Concrete slab
3/4” thick solid wood floors can be installed on a concrete slab located on the ground floor or upstairs, but are not recommended for the basement. As these boards must be nailed, the installer must have previously installed a wood subfloor over the concrete slab.

Recommended work method to install boards

  • Select boards from at least 3 boxes at a time to ensure uniformity of installation.
  • Use a protective surface to place tools and the floor nailer.
  • Frequently vacuum during installation to remove sawdust and abrasives.
  • Frequently vacuum during installation to remove sawdust and abrasives.


Start line

  • Use the chalk line to trace a guide line parallel to the starting wall at a distance from the wall that is the sum of the width of the boards and the 3/4” expansion joint.
  • Use spacer blocks or shims between the floor boards and the wall to achieve the required expansion gap. The expansion joint is required to allow wood to react to changes in humidity.

Board installation

  • Install the first board along the starting line, the side of the tongue facing you, and groove facing the starting wall.
  • Be sure to be straight and square.
  • Always keep an expansion gap of 1/4 “(6 mm) at each end of the rows;
  • According to the nailer used, two rows or more will need to be nailed by hand, until you have enough space to use the nailer.
  • In the following rows, use a pneumatic nailer. The boards must be nailed at every 8” (20.3 cm) to 10” (25.4 cm). Each board must be secured with at least 2 nails. Do not nail within 2 “of the ends to not cause the breaking of the tongue.
  • Monitor the pressure of the compressor to make sure that the tongues are not damaged.
  • Before starting installation, check the nailer for the appropri- ate fit; practice handling the nailer on a scrap board.
  • Regularly clean and inspect the status of the shoe under the nailer so it does not damage the varnished surface.
  • Use of a hammer and tapping block may be necessary to engage the boards into each other. NEVER use the hammer or other hammering tool directly on the boards.
  • The last board of a row will probably be cut. The remaining portion (allow a minimum of 6” length) will be used to start the next row.
  • The last rows of boards must be installed in the same way as the first.
  • It is possible that you need to cut the last row in the direction of the length to allow for an expansion joint of 3/4”.

Cabin Pine collection.

For best results, Mercier wood flooring recommends using staples for its Cabin Pine collection. Staples must be positioned at 8” (20.3 cm) to 10” (25.4 cm) with two staples on the first six inches. It is permitted to assist the nailing sequencing by using a Mapei Eco 905 glue net on the sub-floor to improve the stability of the product.

Apply glue to the subfloor by forming an “S” shaped pattern in the direction of the length of the strips.


Broken or split tongues can crack the floor.

Certain species of harder wood, such as exotic species, require greater attention to the settings of the pressure compressor.

Transition moldings

As part of your installation, you may have to install stair nosing, T-moldings, quarter-round and level reducers. These moldings are available in the same colours and species as your Mercier floor, and are available at your local authorized Mercier retailer. These moldings should be ordered at the same time as your hardwood floor.

Prior to installation the flooring, we recommend you select boards which combine well with moldings to not cause “breaks” in the appearance of the floor.


It is suggested to pre-drill moldings to avoid cracking them when they are nailed.
If you install moldings, such as baseboards or quarter rounds, these should be affixed to the wall and not to the wood floor, to allow for the movement of the floor.
Always observe the space recommended for expansion joints.

Inspection, finishing and maintenance

Once the installation is complete, vacuum the floor and clean the surface using Mercier floor wood cleaner according to instructions. NEVER wash a hardwood floor with water.
You can hide small holes and marks left by the surface nails with a Mercier wax pencil.

  • Fill the cavity using the touch-up pencil.
  • Immediately wipe off the excess with a clean cloth.


Can I use glass mosaic tiles on floors?

Yes, as long as it is used in low traffic areas and for residential use only. This type of tile is frequently used as flooring in showers.

How do I lay out paper-faced glass mosaic tiles?

You glue the product (with cement glue) directly on the wall, paper facing your way.

Can I make a counter out of porcelain tiles?

Absolutely! Kitchen or bathroom countertops can be made with either stone or porcelain tiles.

What can I cover my backsplash with?

You can cover your backsplash with glass mosaic tiles, porcelain tiles, ceramic, quartz or natural stone.

Is it ok to use slate in a wet space such as a bathroom or a mudroom?

Yes. However, as it is a natural stone, it must be sealed. The product then becomes suitable for all types of uses.

What is a rectified porcelain tile?

It is a porcelain tile that has a straight-line cut and thus can be installed with a very thin joint, as thin as 1/16 ‘’.

What types of tiles can be used outside?

First it must be a slip resistant, full body porcelain tile. However, we suggest that you talk to one of our Boutique Workspace consultants who will be happy to steer you in the right direction as other factors need to be considered.

Can I borrow samples of Ceragres products to bring home during my visit to a Boutique Workspace?

Of course! Our four showrooms are equipped with samples of our regular series (vs. special order items).

What is the main difference between ceramic and porcelain tiles?

Ceramic tiles can only be installed on walls, and porcelain tiles can be installed on floors, countertops and walls.

Can a heated floor system be installed in the whole house?


Delivery and Installation

Installation wait times start from the moment you accept final changes. Our delivery times vary from 8 to 12 business days depending on the time of year.

The whole installation process is supervised by the Ceragres team. If you decide to install the product yourself, the Ceragres warranty does not apply.

Before installation, existing countertops should be removed and plumbing disconnected. Pipes will be reattached 24 hours after countertops are installed.

Floating Floor



Before you install the right subfloor and the laminate, you need to prepare the surface properly. Watch our installation films to find out what the ideal drying time for fresh screed is and how you should prepare the surface.

Select your underlay

A subfloor is indispensable before you install the laminate and ensures a longer life for the floor. Depending on the subfloor selected, it will level out the floor, protect against any rising damp, conduct heat and provide sound insulation.

Select your collection

Installing laminate is very simple. Roll your laminate floor together, drop the planks together or simply press them together. Whether you choose ClickXpress, DropXpress or PressXpress, each system ensures a firm and seamless transition.

Laminate under a door

Installing laminate under doors can sometimes cause difficulties. The door frame is usually in the way, as it extends all the way to floor level. Would you like to know how to lay laminate under a door? Check out our installation films “Starting at a door” and “Ending at a door”

Laying laminate around radiator pipes

Installing laminate around radiator pipes can sometimes cause difficulties.
Would you like to know how to lay laminate around pipes? Check out our installation video. You’ll master the skill in no time, and can then enjoy your chosen laminate flooring



To obtain the highest performance from your Moduleo floors, we recommend the following installation guidelines:

  • Prepare the subfloor adequately
  • Use an IVC recommended adhesive
  • Follow the IVC US installation guide




Acclimate KRONOTEX flooring for at least 48 hours before laying by placing the unopened packages horizontally in the room where the floor will be installed at a temperature of at least 18°C.

Before laying KRONOTEX panels, check them once again to make sure they are undamaged, of the right size and identical in appearance when viewed in daylight at the installation site. If you discover any definite defects, make a note of the information printed on the back and report it to your KRONOTEX dealer. Defective panels that have already been installed are excluded from the warranty.

KRONOTEX flooring is not suitable for high-moisture areas such as bathrooms, toilets, saunas, laundry rooms or anywhere else that elevated moisture levels can be expected, as laminate buckles, swells or deforms if moisture penetrates it.

KRONOTEX flooring is a wood-based material. Because wood is hygroscopic (i.e., it absorbs moisture), the laminate works and moves. It is therefore important to use the “floating floor” method of installation. Slight discrepancies between neighbouring panels can then occur; however, this merely demonstrates the genuineness of this natural material.

Important: before laying, acclimate KRONOTEX laminate in the unopened packages for 48 hours in the same room where the flooring will be installed. To minimise the effects of environmental conditions, use up opened packages before opening any new ones. The panels should be laid at a room temperature of at least 18°C.

The room climate should meet the following conditions before, during and for at least three days after laying:

  • Floor temperature: at least 15°C
  • Air temperature: at least 18°C
  • Rel. humidity: max. 75%

Vinyl Floor



Acclimation is a recommended procedure prior to installation of Luxury Vinyl Plank flooring either on the « job site » or in « like job site conditions », as this will make the installation easier. Store the UNOPENED BOXES in the room where the floor is to be installed for at least 48 hours prior to installation. Heating/air conditioning must be on and set between 65° – 85°F (18.3° – 29.5°C).

Tools and materials required

  • Safety glasses
  • Tape measure
  • Spacers
  • Utility knife
  • Straight edge

* Do not use foam underlayment under Beaulieu Canada vinyl floors.

Suitable substrates

Beaulieu Canada LVP flooring can be installed on most existing floors, wooden, PVC and concrete floors. All carpeting and padding needs to be removed. Make sure that the surface is clean, dry and level within 3/16’’ in 10 ft. (4.7 mm in 3 m). Supporting floors must be rigid as too much deflection can result in a failed installation

Wooden substrates

Wood floors must be either 5/8’’ (16 mm) exterior grade tongue and groove plywood or 23/64’’ (9 mm) OSB, free from spring/deflection.

Concrete substrates

Beaulieu Canada LVP flooring may be installed over on grade, above grade or below grade concrete subfloors. Concrete floors shall be constructed in accordance to local construction standards. Concrete shall have a minimum compressive strength of 3500 psi. Installation of a moisture vapour-barrier is recommended prior to pouring of on or below grade slabs. Moisture vapour transmission shall not
exceed 3 lbs / 1000 sq.ft. / 24 hours per ASTM F-1869. Moisture may also be tested according to ASTM F 2170; when tested according to this method, the internal relative humidity shall not exceed 75%.

Existing floors

Beaulieu Canada LVP flooring may be installed over most smooth, single layer, hard surface existing
flooring. Check flooring for any curled areas around the perimeter or at seams and repair if necessary.

Caution: If you plan to remove old resilient flooring material or any type of old adhesive, please be aware that it may contain asbestos fibres or crystalline silica; therefore, avoid creating dust. Inhalation of such dust is cancer and respiratory tract hazard and local regulations may require professional removal. Instructions for the removal of old flooring materials and adhesives may be found in the RFCI Recommended Work Practices for Removal of Resilient Floor Coverings. You may contact the Resilient floor Covering Institute at 706-882-3833 or www.rfci.com.

Substrate preparation

  • All substrates must be dry, clean, smooth level, free from all existing adhesive residues, and free from movement or deflection.
  • Le substrate must be level within 3/16’’ in 10 ft. (4.7 mm in 3 m).
  • Fill and level all plywood seams and concrete cracks, construction joint, control joints, depressions, grooves or other irregularities using appropriate materials.
  • Sweep and/or vacuum substrate to remove all dust debris.

Prior to installation

  • Carefully check flooring material for any defects. Contact your supplier immediately if any defect is found.
  • Room temperature shall be no less than 65°F (18.3°C) for 24 hours before, during and after installation.
  • ERemove all existing mouldings.
  • Undercut doorway mouldings to the thickness of the flooring.
  • Cartons must be stored horizontally at all times.
  • VProtect carton corners from damage.
  • Beaulieu Canada LVP flooring is a floating floor and should not be glued or nailed to the substrate.
  • Beaulieu LVP flooring is intended for indoor use only.
  • Determine in which direction the planks will be installed. To make the room appear larger or if installing in very small rooms or hallways, it is preferable to lay the planks parallel to the longest room dimensions.
  • Do not install cabinets on planks.
  • Carefully measure the room to determine squareness and also to determine the width of the last row of planks is less than 2’’ (50 mm), excluding the tongue, the width of the first row of planks will have to be cut accordingly.
  • A minimum 5/16’’ (8 mm) expansion space is required around the perimeter of the room and all vertical objects.
  • Inspect all planks for visible defects and damage before and during installation. Do not install damaged planks. Beaulieu Canada will not accept responsibility for claims on flooring installed with obvious defects. During installation, inspect the groove area and remove any debris that may prevent proper assembly of planks.
  • Ensure that all boxes are of the same product and mix planks from different boxes for best results.


  1. Begun laying planks from the left side of the starting wall and work to the right side. The tongue side of the plank shall face the starting wall.
  2. Place 5/16’’ (8 mm) spacers between the short and long side of the planks and the wall. Always position one spacer between the wall and where the planks join.
  3. The end joints of the planks in the first row are assembled by inserting the tongue side into the groove side of the previous plank at a low angle. Gradually lower the plan down flat until the end joint closes, insuring that the planks are perfectly aligned. Install remaining full planks in the first row.
  4. The last plank in the first row will need to be cut. Measure the distance between the wall and the surface of the last full plank. Subtract 5/16’’ (8 mm) from this measurement to allow for the spacer. If this measurement is less than 8’’ (20 cm), the length of the first plank in the row must be cut. The first and last plank in each row must be at least 8’’ (20 cm) in length. Planks are cut using a sharp utility knife and a square. Score the surface of the plank with a utility knife and the snap the plank at the score line.
  5. The remaining piece cut off from the last plank in the first row may serve as the first plank in the second row provided it is at least 8’’ (20 cm) long. Always stagger end joints from row to row a minimum of 8’’ (20 cm) apart.
  6. Install the long side of the first plank of the second row. Remember to place a 5/16’’ (8 mm) space between the wall and the short side of the plank. Insert the tongue side into the groove side of the previous row at a low angle and lower flat to the substrate.
  7. Install the second plank of the second row. Position the long side of the plank with the tongue side overlapping the groove of the planks in the previous row approximately 1/8’’ (3.2 mm). Then, angle the end joint into the previous plank. Angle the plank up and gently push forward until the plank locks into the previous row. Continue installing remaining planks in second row. It is important to make sure that the first two rows are straight and square as they can affect the entire installation
  8. Continue working from left to right, row by row. Be sure to maintain a 5/16’’ (8 mm) space around all walls and vertical objects and maintain a random appearance. Remember to offset end joints a minimum of 8’’ (20 cm).

Finishing the installation

  • After all planks have been installed, remove spacers from perimeter of room.
  • Install transition mouldings. Do not fasten any mouldings through the flooring.
  • Pre-drill and install quarter round or baseboard moulding. Moulding must be sufficient size to cover the 5/16’’ (8 mm) space and must be fastened to the wall, not to the flooring.
  • Use plywood to cover the top of the flooring when moving heavy furniture or appliances into position.
  • Use proper floor protectors under the legs of furniture.
  • Post installation temperature must be maintained between 65° and 100° F (18.3° – 37.8° C). Relative humidity must be maintained between 40% and 70%.

Stones & Bricks

Installation must meet National Building Code requirements. Carefully read entire installation guide before proceeding with your stone application. Observe applicable safety precautions.

Estimating stone required

  • Determine gross surface area to be covered by measuring the length times the height.
  • Determine square footage for windows, doors, and other openings.
  • Calculate surface area covered by corner pieces by multiplying measured length by 0.75 (one linear foot of corner pieces covers approximately 0.75 of a square foot of flat area).
  • Determine net surface area to be covered by subtracting square footage for openings and surface area covered by corner pieces from gross surface area.

Surface preparation (Interior / Exterior)

Exterior installation

Concrete, masonry, stucco
If your surface is clean and untreated, no preparation needed.
Examine newly poured concrete closely to ensure that its finished surface contains no release agents (form oil). If it does contain form oil, etch surface with muriatic acid, rinse thoroughly and score with a wire brush . Sandblast or waterblast to original surface (remove sandblasting dust by washing).

Décaper la surface à la sableuse ou par eau sous pression (enlever la poussière de décapage en lavant) ou attacher le treillis métallique de manière solide. Appliquer une couche de mortier de base à surface rayée (1/2” à 3/4” d’épaisseur) et laisser sécher 24 heures (figure b)

Interior installation

Rigid Backwall: Wallboard, Plywood, Wall Sheathing, Gyprock, Concrete Board, Any other acceptable rigid backwall.

Planning of stone work

Before you begin, lay out a quantity of stone (we suggest 20 square feet) near the work area to give you a wide selection of stones to choose from; try to achieve a balanced pattern of shapes, sizes, color and textures by mixing various stones.


You may use Polymer Modified thin-set Mortar to apply stone to wall surface, and then finish joints with Premixed Type N mortar.
Mortar can be tinted to complement the color of the stone being installed.
Applying Mortar to Prepared Surface Area
Apply mortar 1/2″ to 3/4″ thick to prepared surface area. Do not spread more than a workable area 5 – 10 sq. ft., so that mortar will not “set up” before stone is applied.

Stone installation

There are two types of installations: with joints and jointless or dry-stacked. Grouted joints are considered to be a standard installation for bricks and stones. There are some stones such as Artek Stone Ledgestones which for aesthetic reasons are installed without joints (dry-stacked installation).

There are two types of installations: with joints and jointless or dry-stacked. Grouted joints are considered to be a standard installation for bricks and stones. There are some stones such as Artek Stone Ledgestones which for aesthetic reasons are installed without joints (dry-stacked installation).

Setting the stones

To set the stone apply a ½” thick layer of mortar to the entire back of the stone, using a mason’s trowel. Press the stone firmly into place on the prepared wall surface, squeezing the mortar out around all edges. A gentle wiggling action while pressing the stone will ensure a good bond.

With jointless jobs it’s important (when setting the stone) that the edges of the stone are properly sealed with mortar to ensure a good bond. Make sure that edges are hermetically sealed.

Accidental smears should be removed using a whisk broom only after mortar has become crumbly but has not completely set.

Install corner pieces first. Notice that the corner pieces have a long and a short leg. Alternate these in opposite directions. After that, flat pieces are applied working toward the wall center.

The stones can be cut or shaped using appropriate tool according to type of stone and desired cut. Position large pieces first, then trim and fit small pieces into any remaining voids. To conceal cut or broken edges, cover them with mortar when grouting.

Grouting and finishing joints

If additional mortar is required, use a grout bag to fill in joints. Be careful to avoid smearing mortar on surface of stone. Never use a wet brush or wire brush.

When the mortar joints have become firm or thumb-print dry, they should be pointed up with a wood stick or metal jointing tool. Rake out excess mortar, compact and seal edges around stones. Careful attention to proper and even jointing will result in a professional looking finish.